Weekend Break: Thomas Breathnach stays at The West Cork Hotel in Skibbereen.
When an overnight trip to Sherkin Island is scuppered due to squally weather conditions, I find myself in West Cork with a cancelled ferry and but for an intervention of biblical proportions, no hope of crossing Roaringwater Bay to reach my original hotel booking. Alarm is soon averted however with the grace of Google, as I discover a fortuitous special offer for The West Cork Hotel in nearby Skibbereen. And so with atrocious driving conditions and a very rocky N71 it’s off (my friend and) I venture to “ the little boat harbour” of Skibb.
The West Cork Hotel lies on the banks of the River Ilen in the hub of the provincial market town and has been offering last minute deals to intrepid travellers since 1902. The original building conjures up a colonial air with its Victorian balcony, which extends along the berth of its facade. However as we park up by the hotel’s new side-entrance, signs of a recent makeover are apparent.
Directly outisde the hotel’s lobby is Skibbereen’s old railway line truss-bridge which now acts as an innovative extension to the hotel’s Ilen Bar and is lined with seating and manicured box shrubbery. While it’s not quite the climes tonight for al fresco, as a three star hotel, this is a feature which many four stars would be envious of.
Inside, the lobby itself is a bright and fresh space of classic minimalism. It features massive new glass walls and panelling which afford fine river views while the interior is simply decorated with sand coloured arm chairs and low hanging glass chandeliers.
Check –in is friendly and very efficient, if a little impersonal. I’m somehow lost during the receptionist’s soliloquy on the house rules but fortunately my friend catches the directions to our room. The crisp refurbishments of the lobby reach the landing of the first floor when there’s a clear 38th parallel in the tile/carpet line, and you know you’re now going into older territory. The “less is more” look hasn’t continued to the corridors yet which, with dozens of flower prints lining the walls, resembles a botanical hall of fame.
As not all the rooms in the West Cork Hotel are yet fully refurbished, I’m in one of the older rooms due to my late arrival whereas my friend scores one of the new ones. Hers has a classic look with periodesque furniture, golden damask drapes and velvet flocked wallpaper. Mine is more a case of Laura Ashley-lite with a mixed decor. My bed area is contemporary and seductive but the pictorial potpourri from the corridor also adorns the walls here creating a slight feeling of clutter.
It’s a compact room but not in a cabin fever sense. We’re happy to cosy up for a cup or two of complimentary Tetley, admiring the views of Skibbereen’s nebelous skyline, before bracing the drizzle again for a pre-dinner stroll.
The hotel’s Kennedy Restaurant features an allergen friendly menu and we immediately seek out the comfort food options. My rib roast au gluten free gravy is just the hearty accompaniment to the wintry weather, while my friend’s Union Hall fish pie with a flaky gruyère breadcrumb topping is a pescatarian pleasure. Prices are average but portions are bountiful, and the service from our genial waitress is excellent.
Entertainment at hotel tonight is provided by the capricious Cork band Fred . And although the casbah is rocked into the wee hours, we hit the hay content in the knowledge that the hotel will be serving breakfast until 12pm the following morning.
After a splendid bout of shut eye we make it down the dining room just shy of noon where the breakfast buffet is offering your typical victuals. Being in the national capital of dairy produce it would be nice to sample a pot of local West Cork yoghurt rather than the French offerings available but fortunately there’s plenty evidence that the sit down menu shops local. Local produce is of great focus with freshly baked seed bread, free range Rosscarbery sausages and Eggs Kennedy – that’s a kosher eggs Benedict, which uses local smoked salmon instead of bacon. And as they don’t grow bananas in Skibbereen they smother their French toast with fair trade ones instead. It’s a salivating selection – and tasty to boot.
The new look West Cork Hotel had provided us with a one -stop -shop for bed, board and music for the night and while not running on all cylinders yet, the hotel seems to be on the money as a big fish in the Three Star hotel market. With the weather finally abeying we’re keen to discover the area’s hightlight, the mystical Lough Hyne – Europe’s largest salt-water lake, but as we move on we’ll certainly remember how the West Cork Hotel provided a welcome port in the storm.
Where The West Cork Hotel, Ilen Street, Skibbereen, 028-21277 www.westcorkhotel.com
What Recently revamped three star hotel in the centre of the West Cork market town.
Rooms 34 individualled styled, be sure to request a new room where possible.
Best rate Internet Saver rate of €49 per room excl. breakfast. Otherwise €39.50 per night pps. Two nights’ BB with dinner one night €84 pps.
Bars and restaurants There’s The Ilen Bar which is a warm land of leather, and Kennedy’s Restaurant, both of which seem popular with locals.
Children-friendliness There were a number of families as guests and the website references a number of childrens’ activites in the area.
Amenities Conference facilities, golf and wedding packages available, ample free parking.